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Waterproffing DS18B20

 
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Markdem



Joined: 24 Jun 2005
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Waterproffing DS18B20
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:34 pm     Reply with quote

Hi All, nothing to do with CCS, for once. Is the black plastic on a DS18B20, or any transistor for that matter, waterproof. I am tring to find the temp of water, and thinking about just sealing the wire pins on the sensor, so just half of the black bit is in the water. Do you think it will work?

Thanks, Mark
dyeatman



Joined: 06 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:46 pm     Reply with quote

I Googled on waterproof DS1820 and got a lot of stuff.

Basically, no, the sensor is not waterproof. Clear silicone sealant seems to be the waterproofing of choice.
SherpaDoug



Joined: 07 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:20 am     Reply with quote

Bob Pease of National Semiconductor has recommended removing finger oils and other contaminants from plastic cased chips and transitors by putting them through a houshold dishwasher. I would say the plastic packages are pretty waterproof.

I often use a LM34 analog temperature sensor (TO92 case) in wet environments by soldering it to the end of some shielded twisted pair cable and painting any exposed metal with fingernail polish. Fingernail polish is good stuff. It is available in convient small bottles with a built in brush, comes in a variety of colors, dries fast, is intended to adhere tenatiously to not too clean surfaces, and is easly removed with a benign solvent.

The less thermal insulation you put on the sensor the faster it will react to temperature changes, and the less it will be affected by self-heating error. Self heating is the error in a temperature sensor by the heat it generates by it own operation.
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Humberto



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:41 am     Reply with quote

Quote:

...and painting any exposed metal with fingernail polish. Fingernail polish is good stuff. It is available in convient small bottles with a built in brush, comes in a variety of colors, dries fast, is intended to adhere tenatiously to not too clean surfaces, and is easly removed with a benign solvent.


Good point Sherpa.
Just I was wondering the vendors faces while I'm asking for fingernail polish... Embarassed

Humberto
rnielsen



Joined: 23 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:21 am     Reply with quote

The black plastic that is used to encapsulate the die is, for the most part, water proof. It _will_ absorb moisture though. I've worked in the semi-conductor industry for quite some time and moisture content of the plastic is a big deal. We have to bake the parts, after encapsulation, to get most of the moisture out and then ship them in a sealed bag with a deseccant to ensure they are dry. Having the part dipped in water, periodically, will not hurt it, though keeping it submerged for long periods might have an adverse affect on it (it can only hold it's breath for so long Wink ).

If you will be submerging parts into water make sure that your wire leads are sealed as well. Silicone is not a good choice as it containes acidic ingredients that could corrode your electrical connections. A good sealant is Loctite's Color Guard. This is the stuff that you can coat tool handles with. It is quite runny, spreads well and dries rather quickly and also remains a little flexible.

Ronald
rwyoung



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:53 am     Reply with quote

rnielsen wrote:
Silicone is not a good choice as it containes acidic ingredients that could corrode your electrical connections.


Silicone by itself is pretty inert (insert Dow Chemical [spam] implant comment here). It is the curing agents you need to be careful about.

Don't use the clear RTV that has acedic acid (smells like vinegar) as the curing agent. The cheap stuff from the hardware store will definately have acedic acid in it. Check the label.

MG Chemicals and a few others make electrical grade RTV that is non-corrosive. Doesn't seem to dry as hard or have the same "strength" as the clear stuff though. Usually white in color.
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rnielsen



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 12:20 pm     Reply with quote

Quote:
(insert Dow Chemical [spam] implant comment here)

Woot! Makes me want to go home and fondle my tubes of caulk. Shocked

Actually, I should have said silicone caulking is not a good choice. Rolling Eyes
JBM



Joined: 12 May 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:35 pm     Reply with quote

As it happens, my company I work for did exactly that - waterproofed DS18B20s.

What we did was to get stainless steel 'caps' made that are about 3cm long (very similar to the metal tip of a digital medical thermometer, only bigger), with an internal diameter jsut big enoug for the TO92 case. Wires were soldered onto the legs of the chip, then heatshrunk. The whole lot whas stuck inside, and then potted with a heat conductive compound.

If you want photos, or deatils of who we got to make up the steel tips, PM me.
-JBM
specialk



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:50 pm     Reply with quote

JBM wrote:
Wires were soldered onto the legs of the chip, then heatshrunk.
Were they just heatshrunk or did you use adhesive-lined waterproof heatshrink?

-special [k]
JBM



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 10:03 am     Reply with quote

We just heat shrunk the legs, then potted the whole lot with the thermal compund inside the steel tips.
-JBM
Markdem



Joined: 24 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:48 am     Reply with quote

Hi All, thank you all very much for the comments. I am not too sure about putting the sensor in a metal casing as i think it may not transfure the heat. I am going to use this in a aquarium, so the heat will not be very high and the resulution i need is very smal, eg i need to know when the water changes by .5 c. I think i will seal half of the sensor with a epoxy resin i have found that is inert and resistant to water, and then apply a thin coat of nail polish (the wife can get that Smile) to seal the water out.

I will advise how i go..

Thanks, Mark
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